Used Induction Heating for Sale
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About Used Induction Heating
Induction heating puts a metal part inside an alternating magnetic field so the part itself heats, not a box around it. A power supply drives a coil. The coil is shaped to the joint, the bore or the zone you want hot. The rest of the part stays cooler. That is why a brazed fitting, a shrink-fit gear, a bearing inner race or a local harden can be done in seconds. It is not an oven, and it is not a torch you wave by hand.
Frequency and power are the pair that set depth. A higher frequency heats a shallower skin, which is what a surface harden wants. A lower frequency soaks deeper, which is what a heavy braze or a large shrink fit wants. Power, in kilowatts, has to finish the heat in the time the cycle allows. A 5 kW supply that is right for a small fitting will not bring a large hub to braze temperature before the flux burns. The coil is the tooling. A coil wound for one joint often will not heat the next joint. Plan on a coil for each geometry, the way you plan on a die.
Cooling water is part of the machine. The coil and the supply dump heat into a water circuit. Flow, temperature and cleanliness have to stay inside the plate on the cabinet. A choked strainer is a failed coil, not a mystery alarm. Output cables and the matching transformer, when there is one, are wear items. Cracked insulation on a lead is a short waiting for the next cycle.
Fixtures hold the part in the coil at the same place every time. A braze ring or a shim has to sit where the heat is. A harden scan moves the part or the coil along a length, and the speed of that scan is the case depth. A lift-and-rotate fixture is a different machine from a single-shot coil. Do not buy the supply and assume the scan unit is included.
Used induction heating equipment is a supply, a coil and a water circuit. Power it, flow the water, and heat a scrap of the alloy you run. A supply that alarms on a dummy load may still be fine, and a supply that will not tune to your coil is the wrong match. Read kilowatts, frequency range and duty cycle off the plate. Ask whether the coils in the crate were wound for the jobs you have, or for a joint you will never see. A pretty cabinet with no coil is a power supply, not a process.
How to Choose a Used Induction Heating
Coil Shape in Induction Heating
The coil is the tool. A helix, a split coil or a plate coil couples to a different geometry. A coil wound for a tube joint will not heat a flat seam just because the power supply is large enough. Heat has to land on the joint, not on the fixture.
Look at the coil that comes with the set and decide if it is close to your part. A new coil can be wound. A supply that is far too small cannot be argued into a larger joint. Start with the geometry, then the kilowatts.
How to Size Induction Heating Power
Size kilowatts to the mass you must bring to temperature in the time the cycle allows. A light braze fitting and a heavy hub are not the same supply. Frequency affects depth. A higher frequency heats nearer the surface. A lower frequency drives deeper.
Cooling water has to carry away what the coil and the supply reject. Voltage has to match the cabinet. A nameplate in kilowatts is the start. The coil coupling to your joint is the finish. If the coil does not fit, the kilowatts never arrive. Then wind the coil to the joint.
Induction Heating Specs to Compare
| Spec | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Power (kW) | Kilowatts set how fast the joint can reach temperature. A small supply will not heat a large mass in the cycle. |
| Frequency | Frequency changes how deep the heat goes. The joint depth you need is a frequency choice, not a guess. |
| Coil geometry | The coil is the tool. A shape that does not couple to the part heats the fixture or nothing. |
| Cooling water | The coil and the supply have to reject heat. No water, or hot water, shuts the set down or burns a coil. |
| Duty | The cycle says what done looks like. A braze must flow. A shrink fit must hit a band. Do not mix them. |
| Supply voltage | The power supply will not shrug onto the wrong voltage. Confirm the bay before you move the cabinet. |
Power (kW)
Kilowatts set how fast the joint can reach temperature. A small supply will not heat a large mass in the cycle.
Frequency
Frequency changes how deep the heat goes. The joint depth you need is a frequency choice, not a guess.
Coil geometry
The coil is the tool. A shape that does not couple to the part heats the fixture or nothing.
Cooling water
The coil and the supply have to reject heat. No water, or hot water, shuts the set down or burns a coil.
Duty
The cycle says what done looks like. A braze must flow. A shrink fit must hit a band. Do not mix them.
Supply voltage
The power supply will not shrug onto the wrong voltage. Confirm the bay before you move the cabinet.
What to Inspect on a Used Induction Heating
Fire a scrap joint
Watch the metal change color or the filler flow. A fan that runs inside the cabinet is not a braze.
Inspect the coil
Crushed turns, burned insulation and a shape that misses your joint are tooling problems, not settings.
Confirm cooling water
Water should flow through the coil and the supply. A dry coil will not survive a real cycle.
Read kilowatts and frequency
The plate has to be in the range your joint needs. A light braze set will not heat a heavy mass.
Check leads and contacts
Loose or burned connections between the supply and the coil drop power and arc under load.
Watch the tune
The supply should tune to the coil and hold. A set that faults as soon as you start is not ready.
Match the fixture
The joint has to sit in the coil the same way every time. A loose nest makes a random braze.
Related Equipment
- Industrial Ovens & Heat Treating
Chambers and coils in one heat family
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Soak a load when a coil is wrong
- Additional Equipment
The other equipment around the plant
Common Applications
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I size induction heating power for a joint?
Match kilowatts to the mass that must reach temperature in the time you have, and match frequency to how deep that heat should go. A light braze fitting is a small supply. A heavy hub is not. The coil has to couple to the geometry or the kilowatts stay in the cabinet. Cooling water has to be real, at a flow the coil and the supply can live with. Voltage has to match the plate. A nameplate alone is not a sized process until the coil fits the joint.
What should I inspect on a used induction heating set?
Fire a scrap part and watch the joint. Look at the coil for crushed turns and burned insulation, and confirm water flows before you hold the button down. Read kilowatts and frequency against the joint you intend to run. Check the leads for burned contacts. The supply should tune and hold, not fault immediately. A fixture that does not locate the joint in the coil will make a random result even when the supply is healthy. A cabinet that only lights up has not shown you heat in the metal.
How is induction heating different from an oven?
Induction heating puts energy into the metal through a coil. The joint or the zone gets hot. The air in the room does not. An oven or a furnace soaks the entire load, the fixture and the chamber. Use induction when the spec is a braze, a shrink band or a local harden. Use a chamber when a rack of parts must all see one air temperature or an atmosphere. A coil will not cure a cart of painted panels.
What does the coil do in induction heating?
The coil is the tool. Current from the supply runs through it, and that field heats the metal inside or against it. Shape decides where the heat lands. A helix around a tube and a plate coil on a flat seam are not interchangeable, even on the same supply. A crushed or poorly coupled coil heats the wrong place or arcs. You can often wind a new coil for a supply that is otherwise healthy. You cannot argue a tiny supply into a joint that needs far more power.
Which parts suit induction heating for brazing?
Metal joints where the filler should flow at a fit and the rest of the assembly should not soak. Tube fittings, small carbide joints and similar repeats are the usual work. The part has to be metal the field can heat, and the joint has to sit in a coil the same way every cycle. Plastics will not braze this way. A large load that must see a uniform air temperature belongs in an oven or a furnace.
What frequency matters in induction heating?
Frequency changes the depth of the heat. A higher frequency stays nearer the surface. A lower frequency drives deeper into the mass. The joint you are brazing or the case depth you want is what picks it, together with the power that can deliver that frequency into your coil. Two supplies with the same kilowatts and different frequencies are not the same machine. Read the plate. Then confirm the coil you have will tune on that supply. A frequency the coil cannot match is a second project.
